After 83 years, the inner Tsukiji Fish Market closed its doors in 2018. Majority of the businesses there relocated to a modern facility at the new Toyosu Market in Koto City, a special ward in Tokyo Metropolis. Sadly, in my opinion, the new fish market lacks the old charm and cultural significance of the original location. Restaurants and small retailers still remain in the outer Tsukiji, but the historical fish market known by many around the world no longer exists. In 2009, I thankfully had the opportunity to explore and photo document inside Tsukiji. That was unfortunately my first and last visit to the inner market. Shortly after my visit, I wrote a journal (Revised and edited for this post) about my experience there so I could occasionally return to the vivid memory of this unique place. All the photographs were taken during that morning on October 28, 2009.
Wednesday, 10/28/2009
My hotel alarm clock beeped loudly right at 4:00 am and man, it was tough getting out of my nice warm bed. I was out late last night having shabu-shabu dinner with friends, so I didn’t get much sleep. The Maguro (Tuna) auction I was told starts exactly at 5 am, so I got ready fast. Without washing up, I put my clothes on, grabbed my camera gear and came down to the front lobby in just under fifteen minutes. (My camera gear: Pair of Canon 5D-Mark II DSLR, one mounted with EF 24-70mm f2.8 L glass and the other with EF 70-200mm f2.8 L Zoom). I rushed outside the hotel and hailed for a taxi that was parked near by. It was too early and the trains weren’t running yet. Taxi was much quicker anyway. From Shinagawa, it took about twenty minutes and ¥3,000 yen to get to the outer Tsukiji Fish Market.
Maguro Swordsman, © Pak Han 2009
Tight Maneuver, © Pak Han 2009
This place was huge with maze like walkways flanked by small wholesaler stalls on both sides. I got lost right away. As I navigated quickly across the market to get to the auction, my senses exploded with the pungent smell of ocean, and fresh caught fish familiar and exotic. It was bustling with active people moving about in all direction, on foot and on their highly maneuverable motorized carts carrying crates and all sorts of seafood. The energy of the marketplace rushed through my body as if I got poked with adrenaline.
After getting confusing directions from security guards, I found my way to the auction site right when they opened their doors to a dozen or so eager visitors. I started getting really excited as we stepped into the chilly warehouse. The first sight of huge frozen tunas neatly lined up in rows on the wet misty concrete floor was eerily amazing. A man in blue uniform escorted us to a small area, where it was cordoned off from the workers and valuable tunas on display. Our visitor space was rather small and packed. It was also located at one end of the warehouse, so there was some distance between us and the activities on the floor. I tried my best to get into a good position to observe and take photographs. My 70-200mm glass came in very handy for capturing many of the action at the far end of the building.
Maguro Buyer, © Pak Han 2009
It was preview time and a group of buyers all wearing dark rubber boots, carrying flashlights and menacingly looking pick hooks roamed the floor, carefully inspecting the tunas. They went from tuna to tuna, picking, poking, touching and even taking small pieces of meat from the tail end of each fish to taste. The buyers then scribbled diligently on their small wrinkly notebooks and chose their favorite fish. It was fascinating to see the very meticulous evaluation process, which made sense given that premium tunas can fetch millions of Yen.
The cowbells clanged, signaling the start of the auction. An auctioneer stood up on top of a wooden stool and began shouting into a crowd of bidders without a microphone. What I heard next sounded like ritual chants, a rhythm of voices and hollers orchestrated by auctioneers and buyers placing their bids. As one auction ended, another began. This ritual continued until most of the tunas were sold on the floor.
Frozen Maguro, © Pak Han 2009
Maguro Cutter, © Pak Han 2009
Once I left the warehouse, I toured the inner fish market at a relaxed pace, trying to take in as much as I can. There were stalls selling eclectic assortments of fresh fish and molluscs; even live ones and some specialized in just few specific types of seafood. People working in the stalls were restlessly cleaning, cutting fish and making transactions with their customers. I also got to see where many of the tunas from the auction went. The frozen tunas were carted to vendors who sawed them up into various pieces. Some of them were packed into vehicles to be transported outside the market and some were carted to wholesalers in the market to be sold. I spent most of the morning wandering with a curious eye and observing the market’s customs.
When my stomach started growling, I realized I haven’t eaten anything all morning. It was time to eat. Finding a good place serving fresh fish in Tsukiji wasn’t too difficult. There are an abundance of restaurants, mostly small family owned establishments not far from the main inner market. I stumbled onto a restaurant with a long line of hungry local folks waiting to be seated. This was the place for me. The menu was simple. I ordered the Chirashi-don (Sashimi over sushi rice) with Toro (Fatty tuna), Uni (Sea Urchin) and Ikura (Salmon roe). There was no doubt about the quality and freshness of the main ingredients. The thick portions were firm and bright. Toro had the nice pale pink color and it literally melted in my mouth. Uni was delightfully sweet with a mildly nutty taste. It was the perfect meal to end a busy, fun morning at the market. I decided to take the train back to my hotel. In the train, I sat quietly and savored my morning adventure, and imagined my return to the Tsukiji Fish Market when I make another trip back to Japan.